Life in Bosnia: Hiking to the Famous Cross of Mostar

Life in Bosnia: Hiking to the Famous Cross of Mostar

This article was submitted by ISA BELLE, a Dutch student studying in Mostar, Herzegovina.

In my last article, you can read about the cross on the Hum, the hill dominating Mostar. Although being a topic for argument, it’s one of my favorite places. Not because it is a cross (I think it’s ugly) but because the space takes me away to nature while being in a big city, and offers stunning views of the hills and mountains that surround Mostar.

I have been at the cross four times, and each time is as memorable as the last. The walk takes about one to two hours, depending on where you start, but believe me; it’s worth the sweat! The trip to the cross first leads you to a traffic road, so watch out for cars as Balkan drivers are notorious. Every new step unveils Mostar and the mountains hidden behind the hills. In the winter and spring, these mountains are covered with a layer of snow, which is a really beautiful sight. Halfway to the cross, you have to change the road for a path especially made for walkers to the cross. This is obvious given all the smaller wooden crosses along your way up to the big one.

At the spot where you leave the road, there is a place where you can overview the valley behind the hill. It is located south of Mostar where its airport is. It is nice to see the other side as well, and you can clearly see differences in the landscape north and south of you. Once you have reached the top (you’ll know you are near when you see a big cross looming in front of you), there is this incredible view.

You can see a lot of Mostar: the smooth hills, the steep mountains, the green, blue Neretva flowing through the city, soft hills, and steep mountains, the concrete flats on the Croat side and the mosques on the Bosniak side. I don’t dare to describe anything more and hope however you understand it; you will get the full impact only when you hike there yourself.The only thing you cannot see is the old bridge hidden behind the edge of the hill. To see it, continue walking past the cross.

The path will branch off at some point, and you’ll see a few scattered huts where snipers operated during the war. Take the road turning left, and eventually, you will see the old bridge. If you have time, take a minute or two to stop and look at the huts surrounded by graves of Croat soldiers. However, please be extra careful as there might be mines near the huts. Though the war finished more than a decade ago, clearing old mines still needs time.

How to get to the Cross:

First; take the road leading to Citluk, Medugorje, and Ljubuski. You can get there in different ways. Just ask a random Croat from Mostar for the direction to the cross, and they will help you get started. The most interesting way for me is passing the Zrinsjki fan club bar (Zrinsjki is the Croat football team of Mostar) and over a graveyard.I recommend hiking shoes, or at least good shoes, sun block and water, especially in summer as it’s hot in Mostar.